Across an enormous bridge from La Rochelle, a bridge reminiscent of the Sunshine Skyway Bridge in Tampa Bay, lies a little French paradise, a Martha’s Vineyard, or maybe more precisely a Nantucket, à la française.

In 2007, when I took my first French road trip with some friends from the language program at the Sorbonne, we passed through La Rochelle. At the time, I wasn’t quite impressed. It was February; the city closed down – the sky grey, the air cold, the atmosphere still and quiet. Not a soul haunted the endless walkways along the seashore. So we didn’t stay long, opting instead to continue down south toward Bordeaux, with a small jaunt through Cognac on the way where we found much more to our mutual liking: vineyards, wine tastings, lush countryside. I had no idea back then what I was missing…

For years, I didn’t give La Rochelle another thought until a few months ago when friends invited me to visit their family beach house on the Ile de Ré.

Hopping on the train from Paris, it’s a 3 hour direct trip to the ocean’s side at La Rochelle. From there, you either have a car waiting for you or you take public transit (40€ cab or 5€ bus) over that enormous bridge connecting the mainland to the island.

Before the bridge was built in the late 1980s, residents and vacationers alike had to catch a ferry to and from the island. From what I gather by listening to the stories told by those who spent their childhood summer’s on the island, it was a scenic part of the adventure, a major inconvenience bien sûr, but all part of the fun, nonetheless.

And now you’ve arrived. What’s next: a walk along the beach, a lunch of oysters on a port side terrace, a stroll through the farmer’s market or along the salt marshes where the famous Ile de Ré sea salt is cultivated?

The island boasts ten towns: Rivedoux-Plage, La Flotte-en-Ré, Saint-Martin-de-Ré, Sainte-Marie-de-Ré/La Noue,  Le Bois-Plage, La Couarde-sur-Mer, Loix, Ars-en-Ré, Les Portes-en-Ré,  and Saint-Clément-des-Baleines. I’ve had the pleasure to visit Couarde, St Martin and Ars so far.

My impressions, as you’ll see from the slideshow below, are nothing but, well, impressed. The beaches are sandy, unlike those up north near Dieppe or down south by Cannes; and the temperature a mild, gentle 78F (26C) at the height of summer and 45F (7C) in the middle of winter.

If you can imagine it, the Ile de Ré is some sort of extraordinary mix of blue, green and grey painted wooden shutters on white stucco houses with red tile roofs against the backdrop of emerald green landscape left to nature’s preference, melded together with the aqua-green of the Atlantic and the shadow of umbrella trees spread high and wide over the sand dunes typical to the island at the water’s edge.

The next thing you’ll notice is the bikes. The Ile de Ré is a biking island. Everyone has a bike, or rents one. And everyone gets around by peddling. Bike paths are everywhere and even more common than the roads themselves.

I remember the first time I visited Martha’s Vineyard, years ago now, and that feeling I had of instantaneous relaxation, the natural beauty of the place sinking into my skin and mind. I hadn’t felt that feeling reoccur until I was lucky enough to experience the Ile de Ré. It’s a favorite vacation spot for the French (especially Parisians who live relatively near by) and it’s a paradise for those who love the simplicity that comes with the fresh air off the ocean tides, the tingle of the sun’s kiss on your shoulders as you ride a bike through the vineyards and fields of a land left noticeably to its virgin roots.

Definitely recommended. And, from what I hear, the off season – not July or August, is your best bet.

On the corner of rue Beaurepaire in Paris’ 10ème arrondissement at the edge of the Canal Saint Martin, sits Chez Prune. It doesn’t look like much when you walk in, just another café/brasserie, but the atmosphere beginning around 6pm is lathered with the Bobo artsy types of which Paris is filled to the brim. Cocktails are at happy hour prices until around 8pm. And it is packed by 7:30, so don’t dawdle too long getting yourself over to Chez Prune for a very Parisian aperitif!

Once you’ve soaked up a wine or two at Chez Prune, make your way over to La Madonnina, a little Italian bistro on rue Marie & Louise, just a few minutes’ walk over the bridge. La Madonnina is a quaint, romantic spot with excellent antipasti and classic Italian dishes. The service is friendly and warm, like we’re having dinner at a friend of a friend’s. Head’s up: the Tiramisu is to die for.

If you happen to be on the other side of Paris, I’d definitely take a moment to pop into Chez Marcel on rue des Dames for dinner. Again, this place has a great atmosphere. Welcoming and energetic, the staff whiz around the central bar serving traditional French dishes and laughing with the regulars. This little slice of Paris is popular with the locals (Parisians) so you’ll get a real taste of the city when dining. Recommendations are highly recommended as I’ve never been to this place when it wasn’t backed, even at 11pm after going to the cinema!

Finally, back over on the eastern edge of Paris is Chez Justine on rue Oberkampf on the 11ème, just down the street from République. (I just realized that all but one of these places begins with Chez… it means “at the house of” in French and is a pretty common name for restaurants, as you can see!) This is a hip lounge type restaurant with a typical fusion-French menu and great cocktails. Drop by for a Happy Hour drink and stay for dinner if the mood suits.

Happy dining!

Real (and by real I mean the original) macaroons are actually just the top of the macaroons that we know from Ladurée or Pierre Hermé in Paris. And they only come in one flavor: vanilla. Not chocolate or pistachio, strawberry or coffee. They have the same general porous appearance as modern macaroons, but they are rather thinner and crunchier, and must be kept in the fridge.

The bakery where my friend bought my sample is called Mason des Soeurs Macarons which is known as where the macaroon was created. This particular bakery was founded in 1793 (can you believe that!), just after the last king and queen were taken captive by Revolutionists. Here’s the story:

When Catherine de Vaudémont, daughter of the Duc de Charles III, became the abbesse of Remiremont, she founded in center of Nancy the monastery of the Dames du Saint-Sacrement where eating meat was strictly prohibited. As a result, the Sisters baked a large variety of pastries including the famous Macaroon…

At the time of the décret de suppression des congrégations religieuses (5 Avril 1792), two of the nuns, Sisters Marguerite and Marie-Elisabeth, found refuge with a certain Doctor Gormand, the community doctor near the monastery. In order to sustain themselves, the Sisters continued to fabricate and sell their Macaroons.

Rapidly, the sisters began well-known and were from then on called “Les Soeurs Macarons”. In 1952, the city of Nancy honored les Soeurs Macarons by dedicating the part of the street where the doctor lived to the Sisters and the “Véritable Macaron de Nancy” (the real macaroon).

Ever since, Les Sœurs Macarons has been a local and national treasure.

A week later, or maybe its been 10 days, we had one of the most beautiful spring days yet! Gorgeous blue sky, 8 degrees (mid 40s), the sun would not stop smiling down upon us.

Here’s a peek at how temperamental early Parisian springtime can be!

You’d think it was the middle of a bleak January week:

And then it’s almost April, with a lovely rainbow to accentuate the difference:

The old town is centered around the Vieille Bassin, a U-shaped harbor lined with colorful old buildings, terraces, seafood on offer at every step. An enchanting town; even though it did rain for most of each day we were there.

Of interest in Honfleur, beyond the natural and historic points of importance, are the salt mills (aren’t the called salt works in English?), Saint Catherine cathedral which boasts the oldest wooden clock tower dating back to the 100s Years War between France and England, as well as the Eugene Boudin Museum, one of my favorite French Impressionists.

The Impressionists in general, including Boudin, loved Honfleur for its magnificent light. He spent a great deal of time in the town painting the harbor, the boats, capturing the seaside spirit (it’s actually the English Channel). He immortalized the slow dance of the rays on the swaying waves along the harbor’s edge, the ship parades, the coastal village life of a time gone by.

While you’re in Honfleur, eat seafood. Almost every restaurant on the port offers a variety of fresh catch platters, oysters, seafood stew, and the typically French mussels and fries (moules frites). Although touristy on appearance, the restaurants along the Vieille Bassin are not at all cookie-cutter franchises, as we might imagine. Each that we frequented was owned by those who served us and the service was inviting, hospitable and prompt A nice change from the touristy areas of Paris.

If you are visiting Paris for a few weeks and you’d like to see a little touch of Normandy, Honfleur is a perfect choice for the weekend. Two hours from Paris by train, Honfleur neighbors Deauville and Tocqueville, both much larger and perhaps better known Norman coastal towns. Honfleur, however, gets my vote. Charm, all the way.

Hopping on the TGV at Gare de Lyon in Paris, I didn’t know what the long weekend had in store for me. It was a surprise. Four hours later, I stepped off the train in Sallanches at the foot of Mont Blanc and the site took my breath away.

Sallanches, which is near Cluses and Megève. Is one of the best places to begin a winter holiday if you want to see the Alps in all their glory. The sky shone sapphire blue for us all four days. It’s hard for me to describe to you how beautiful this part of the world is! Magnifique, as they say in French. Truly something the likes of which I’ve never seen before. I took over 100 pictures so that I could share it with you.

While we were in the region, we ate the traditional Savoie fare: tartiflette, raclette, fondue savoyarde and tasted the regional cheese, Reblochon, in various forms.

I used to be a big time skier, but in my 30s a certain fear has gripped me, so I spent my time in the Alps snow shoeing, sitting by the fire in our lodge, and visiting the adorable villages that trace the foot of these majestic mountains – the lovely pedestrian town center in Megève, Annecy reminiscent of a Venice by the Alps and for which we took the Route des Grandes Alpes, Combloux for snow shoeing, Cordon for a tartiflette lunch…

It was a magical experience. No wonder the French continue this tradition year after year. I hope to do the same!

Here are the photos… 104 in total, everything from the first view of the Alps from the train, to the lodge, the villages, the horse-drawn carriages, snow shoeing, and lunch out on a terrace before Mont Blanc.

When we first arrive in Paris, it might seem that these markets are random, organic types of events, but in fact they are highly organized. Each arrondissement structures the days and times of their various marchés and city workers come by the evening before, place the metal polls in the ground, the tarps overhead to protect the merchants and customers from the weather. Then after each market is over, the workers come back around to clean up the garbage, sweep and spray down the streets and city squares, take down the polls and tarps… until the next time when they do it all over again.

A note about a few of the more remarkable of these French markets.

Les Halles: The first open air market appeared on this site in Paris in 1810. Les Halles, now a huge plaza with a museum, was then composed of simply four pavilions. In 1954, the market was replaced by a large commercial building which was in turn redesigned in the 1990s into an entirely glass structure by architect Ricardo Bofill. Today this building serves as office space. The current market has been active since 2003 and includes the services of bakers, produce farmers, jewelry, clothes and fabric.

Ile de la Cité: One of the last open air market that sells live birds, the flower market on the Ile de la Cité (where Notre Dame stands) specializes in flowers, birds, and other small animals. This market is half covered, half open air and has changed little since its inauguration in the early 1900s. With a large range of flowers, both domestic and exotic, the market is open every day from 8am to 7pm. On Sundays, the market is host to a large offering of birds and other animals, accessories and cages, etc.

Madeleine: The place from Madeleine, which took on its current form in 1842, was an ancient flower market where still today certain merchants continue to conduct their family’s business.

La Gare de l’est: In the center of the courtyard at the Gare de l’est the well known fair Saint Laurent stood in the 17th century. The fair was replaced in the 18th century by the market Saint-Quentin before it was relocated to its present location in 1866 on boulevard Magenta.

Ancient and Used Book market:  Since 1987, 197 book stores unite each weekend in the ancient market place of Georges Brassens to sell books. Open every weekend without exception from 9am to 6pm, this is a must see stop for all book lovers. Note: most of the selection is in French.

Puces de Saint-Ouen: The Flea market at Saint-Ouen in north Paris is world renown. Over 3 hectares of property and 2500 stands full of antiques. More recently there has been an influx of junk sold at this market. If you’re going, take the day. You’ll need to rummage a bit, but it’s worth it. Open every weekend from 8:30am to 5:30pm and Mondays from 10 :30am to 5:30pm.

By Arrondissement:

1er

Marché Saint-Eustache-Les Halles

Rue Montmartre 75001 Paris

Between la rue Rambuteau and la rue du Jour

Thursday from 12h30 to 20h30

Sundays from 07h00 to 15h00

Marché St Honoré

Place du marché Saint Honoré 75001 Paris

Wednesdays from 12h30 to 20h30

Saturdays from 07h00 to 15h00

2ème

Marché Bourse

Place de la Bourse 75002 Paris

Tuesdays from 12h30 to 20h30

Fridays from 12h30 to 20h30

3ème

Marché couvert des Enfants Rouges

39, rue de Bretagne 75003 Paris

Tuesdays from 08h30 to 19h30

Wednesdays from 08h30 to 19h30

Thursdays from 08h30 to 19h30

Fridays from 08h30 to 19h30

Saturdays from 08h30 to 19h30

Sundays from 08h30 to 14h00

4ème

Marché aux fleurs and aux oiseaux Cité

Place Louis Lépine and Quai de la Corse 75004 Paris

Mondays from 08h00 to 19h30

Tuesdays from 08h00 to 19h30

Wednesdays from 08h00 to 19h30

Thursdays from 08h00 to 19h30

Fridays from 08h00 to 19h30

Saturdays from 08h00 to 19h30

Sundays from 08h00 to 19h00

Marché Baudoyer

Place Baudoyer 75004 Paris

Wednesdays from 12h30 to 20h30

Saturdays from 07h00 to 15h00

5ème

Marché Maubert

Place Maubert 75005 Paris

Tuesdays from 07h00 to 14h30

Thursdays from 07h00 to 14h30

Saturdays from 07h00 to 15h00

Marché Monge

Place Nonge 75005 Paris

Wednesdays from 07h00 to 14h30

Fridays from 07h00 to 14h30

Sundays from 07h00 to 15h00

Marché Port-Royal

Boulevard de Port-Royal 75005 Paris

Tuesdays from 07h00 to 14h30

Thursdays from 07h00 to 14h30

Saturdays from 07h00 to 15h00

6ème

Marché biologique Raspail (organic)

Boulevard Raspail 75006 Paris

Between les rues du Cherche Midi and de Rennes

Sundays from 09h00 to 15h00

Marché couvert Saint-Germain (covered)

4/6, rue Lobineau 75006 Paris

Tuesdays from 08h00 to 20h00

Wednesdays from 08h00 to 20h00

Thursdays from 08h00 to 20h00

Fridays from 08h00 to 20h00

Saturdays from 08h00 to 20h00

Sundays from 08h00 to 13h30

Marché Raspail

Boulevard Raspail 75006 Paris

Tuesdays from 07h00 to 14h30

Fridays from 07h00 to 14h30

7ème

Marché Saxe-Brandeuil

Avenue de Saxe 75007 Paris

Thursday from 07h00 to 14h30

Saturday from 07h00 to 15h00

8ème

Marché Aguesseau

Place de la Madeleine 75008 Paris

Tuesday from 07h00 to 14h30

Friday from 07h00 to 14h30

Marché aux fleurs Madeleine

Place de la Madeleine 75008 Paris

Mondays from 08h00 to 19h30

Tuesdays from 08h00 to 19h30

Wednesdays from 08h00 to 19h30

Thursdays from 08h00 to 19h30

Fridays from 08h00 to 19h30

Saturdays from 08h00 to 19h30

9ème

Marché Anvers

Place d’Anvers 75009 Paris

Fridays from 15h00 to 20h30

10ème

Marché Alibert

Rue Alibert 75010 Paris

Sundays from 07h00 to 15h00

Marché couvert Saint-Quentin (covered)

85 bis, bd magenta 75010 Paris

Tuesdays from 08h00 to 20h00

Wednesdays from 08h00 to 20h00

Thursdays from 08h00 to 20h00

Fridays from 08h00 to 20h00

Saturdays from 08h00 to 20h00

Sundays from 08h00 to 13h30

Marché couvert St Martin (covered)

31/33 rue du château d’eau 75010 Paris

Tuesdays from 09h00 to 20h00

Wednesdays from 09h00 to 20h00

Thursdays from 09h00 to 20h00

Fridays from 09h00 to 20h00

Saturdays from 09h00 to 20h00

Sundays from 09h00 to 14h00

11ème

Marché Bastille

Boulevard Richard Lenoir 75011 Paris

Between les rues Amelot and Saint-Sabin

Thursdays from 07h00 to 14h30

Sundays from 07h00 to 15h00

Marché Père-Lachaise

Bd from Ménilmontant 75011 Paris

Between les rues des Panoyaux and des Cendriers

Tuesdays from 07h00 to 14h30

Fridays from 07h00 to 14h30

12ème

Marché Belleville

Boulevard de Belleville 75011 Paris

Tuesdays from 07h00 to 14h30

Fridays from 07h00 to 14h30

Marché Bercy

Between n°14 place Lachambeaudie and n°11 rue Baron-le-Roy 75012 Paris

Wednesdays from 15h00 to 20h00

Sundays from 07h00 to 15h00

Marché Cours de Vincennes

Cours de Vincennes 75012 Paris

Between le bd Picpus and la rue Arnold Nandter

Wednesdays from 07h00 to 14h30

Saturdays from 07h00 to 15h00

Marché St Eloi

36-38 rue from Reuilly 75012 Paris

Thursdays from 07h00 to 14h30

Sundays from 07h00 to 15h00

Marché Porte Dorée

Avenue Daumesnil 75012 Paris

Thursdays from 07h00 to 14h30

Sundays from 07h00 to 15h00

13ème

Marché Bobillot

Rue Bobillot 75013 Paris

Tuesdays from 07h00 to 14h30

Fridays from 07h00 to 14h30

Marché Maison-Blanche

Avenue d’Italie 75013 Paris

Thursdays from 07h00 to 14h30

Sundays from 07h00 to 15h00

Marché Paris Rive Gauche

18 Rue Jean Anouilh 75013 Paris

Fridays from 12h00 to 20h45

Marché Salpétrière

36 Boulevard de l’Hôpital 75013 Paris

Tuesdays from 07h00 to 14h30

Fridays from 07h00 to 14h30

Marché Alésia

Rue de la Glacière 75013 Paris

Wednesdays from 07h00 to 14h30

Saturdays from 07h00 to 15h00

14ème

Marché aux puces de la porte de Vanves (Flea market)

Avenue Georges Lafenestre 75014 Paris

Saturdays from 07h00 to 19h30

Sundays from 07h00 to 19h30

Marché biologique Brancusi (organic)

Place Constantin Brancusi 75014 Paris

Saturdays from 09h00 to 15h00

Marché Edgar Quinet

Boulevard Edgar Quinet 75014 Paris

Wednesdays from 07h00 to 14h30

Saturdays from 07h00 to 15h00

Marché Mouton-Duvernet

Place Jacques Frommy 75014 Paris

Tuesdays from 07h00 to 14h30

Fridays from 07h00 to 14h30

15ème

Marché Cervantes

60 rue Bargue 75015 Paris

Between la rue Bargue and rue de la Procession

Wednesdays from 07h00 to 14h30

Saturdays from 07h00 to 15h00

Marché Convention

Rue Convention 75015 Paris

Rue Convention between les rues Alain Chartier and l’Abbé Groult

Tuesdays from 07h00 to 14h30

Thursdays from 07h00 to 14h30

Sundays from 07h00 to 15h00

Marché Lecourbe

Rue Lecourbe 75015 Paris

Between les rues Vasco and Gama and Leblanc

Wednesdays from 07h00 to 14h30

Saturdays from 07h00 to 15h00

Marché Grenelle

Bd de Grenelle 75015 Paris

Entre la rue Lourmel and la rue du Commerce

Wednesdays from 07h00 to 14h30

Sundays from 07h00 to 15h00

Marché du livre ancien and d’occasion George Brassens

One of my favorite market in all of Paris !

104, rue Brancion 75015 Paris

Saturdays from 09h00 to 18h00

Sundays from 09h00 to 18h00

16ème

Marché Auteuil

My market !

Place Jean Lorrain 75016 Paris

Wednesdays from 07h00 to 14h30

Saturdays from 07h00 to 15h00

Marché couvert from Passy (covered)

This is the one that was in the Christmas video.

Place de Passy 75016 Paris

Tuesdays from 08h00 to 13h00 and from 16h00 to 19h00

Wednesdays from 08h00 to 13h00 and from 16h00 to 19h00

Thursdays from 08h00 to 13h00 and from 16h00 to 19h00

Fridays from 08h00 to 13h00 and from 16h00 to 19h00

Saturdays from 08h00 to 13h00 and from 15h30 to 19h00

Sundays from 08h00 to 13h00

Marché Gros-la-Fontaine

37 Rue Gros 75016 Paris

Entre les rues Gros and La Fontaine

Tuesdays from 07h00 to 14h30

Fridays from 07h00 to 14h30

Marché Porte Molitor

Place de la Porte Molitor 75016 Paris

Tuesdays from 07h00 to 14h30

Fridays from 07h00 to 14h30

Marché Point du Jour

Avenue de Versailles 75016 Paris

Tuesdays from 07h00 to 14h30

Thursdays from 07h00 to 14h30

Sundays from 07h00 to 15h00

17ème

Marché aux fleurs Ternes

Place des Ternes 75017 paris

Tuesdays from 08h00 to 19h30

Wednesdays from 08h00 to 19h30

Thursdays from 08h00 to 19h30

Fridays from 08h00 to 19h30

Saturdays from 08h00 to 19h30

Sundays from 08h00 to 19h30

Marché Berthier

Boulevard de Reims 75017 Paris

Le long du Square André Ulmann

Wednesdays from 07h00 to 14h30

Saturdays from 07h00 to 15h00

Marché biologique des Batignolles (organic)

34 boulevard de Batignolles 75017 Paris

Saturdays from 09h00 to 15h00

Marché couvert Batignolles (covered)

96 bis rue Lemercier 75017 Paris

Tuesdays from 08h30 to 13h00 and from 15h30 to 20h00

Wednesdays from 08h30 to 13h00 and from 15h30 to 20h00

Thursdays from 08h30 to 13h00 and from 15h30 to 20h00

Fridays from 08h30 to 13h00 and from 15h30 to 20h00

Saturdays from 08h30 to 20h00

Sundays from 08h30 to 14h00

Marché couvert des Ternes (covered)

8 bis rue Lebon 75017 Paris

Tuesdays from 08h00 to 13h00 and from 16h00 to 19h30

Wednesdays from 08h00 to 13h00 and from 16h00 to 19h30

Thursdays from 08h00 to 13h00 and from 16h00 to 19h30

Fridays from 08h00 to 13h00 and from 16h00 to 19h30

Saturdays from 08h00 to 13h00 and from 16h00 to 19h30

Sundays from 08h00 to 13h00

Marché Navier

Rue Navier 75017 Paris

Tuesdays from 07h00 to 14h30

Fridays from 07h00 to 14h30

18ème

Marché aux puces de Saint-Ouen – Clignancourt (Flea-market)

Avenue de la Porte de Clignancourt 75018 Paris

Mondays from 07h00 to 19h30

Saturdays from 07h00 to 19h30

Sundays from 07h00 to 19h30

Marché Barbès

Boulevard de la Chapelle 75018 Paris

Wednesdays from 08h00 to 13h00

Saturdays from 07h00 to 15h00

Marché couvert La Chapelle (covered)

10 rue de l’Olive 75018 Paris

Tuesdays from 08h00 to 19h30

Wednesdays from 08h00 to 19h30

Thursdays from 08h00 to 19h30

Fridays from 08h00 to 19h30

Saturdays from 09h00 to 13h00

Sundays from 08h00 to 13h30

Marché Orfromner (since 1888)

Rue Orfromner 75018 Paris

Wednesdays from 08h00 to 13h00

Saturdays from 08h00 to 13h00

Marché Ornano (since 1873)

Boulevard Ornano 75018 Paris

Tuesdays from 08h00 to 13h00

Fridays from 08h00 to 13h00

Sundays from 08h00 to 13h00

Related articles:

• Treasures of a French Pharmacie
• Some More Treasures of a French Pharmacie 
• Treasures of a French Pharmacie 3

Beginning on Friday around dusk (4:30pm here in Paris at the height of winter), large snowflakes began to fall from a velvet sky. At first, I thought we’d be graced with a light dusting, like in so many winters past, a thin sheet of white that would disappear by the time I awoke the next morning.

By midnight on Friday, however, Paris was under siege. A heavy layer of purity covered everything. The city was still, silent; Parisians snuggle in their beds unaware of the metamorphosis. Throughout the weekend, some of the most beautiful snow fall I’ve seen descended with varying haste from a sky open to deliverance.

Paris is not equipped to deal with so much snow. The sidewalks on Sunday were white and solid, the roads practically bare as snow tires are an unnecessary precaution in this city… most of the time.

And so it was quiet in Paris this weekend. A blanket fell upon us all, deafening the hustle and bustle of our everyday lives.

Take a peek…